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The once-high-speed connection that reached its peak on Apple’s first music player, appears to be dead.
Technology is always moving forward, which often means old technology gets left behind. For example, NekoMichiUBC on X hasdiscoveredthat the macOS Tahoe beta lacks support for FireWire. That means that legacy devices, such as theoriginaland2nd-generationiPod, storage devices. cameras, and more won’t work with Macs running Tahoe.
It’s actually impressive that Apple has supported FireWire for so long, since Apple tends to drop old tech in a few years. Known by the standard name of IEEE 1394 (FireWire is Apple’s branding), Apple led its development in the late 1980s as a solution for devices that needed high-speed connectivity. In the 2000s, USB became popular and FireWire ports on Macs were eventually dropped, but support had been kept in macOS until Tahoe.
What to do if you have a FireWire device you want to use? Well, you don’t have to upgrade to Tahoe; your Mac is just fine running that older version of macOS. It means, though, that you can’t useTahoe’s features. It also means that any features that operate between iOS 26, iPadOS 26, and Tahoe won’t be available to you, such as Call Screening. If you have a spare Mac, you can decide not install Tahoe on it and use it when you need to use FireWire devices, like an iPod.
If you depend on those old FireWire devices daily, it’s a good idea to upgrade, especially if it’s a storage device. That FireWire hard drive has a lot of miles on it, so its chances of failure are relatively high and increasing every day. You can probably get a faster drive with a lot more storage for a lower price than what you paid for that FireWire drive (storage was much more expensive back then). Get our picks for thebest external hard drivesandSSDs. If it’s a camera, your iPhone 15 probably produces better quality photos, though using old cameras for stylistic purposes is a thing. We get it.
There’s always a chance Apple could reinstate FireWire support in Tahoe–it’s in beta and changes always happen during the cycle. There doesn’t seem to be any technical consequence to it, but Apple likes to drop old tech as part of its proper housekeeping practice. Chances are, it’s gone, so take the time to prepare yourself before Tahoe is officially released in the fall. Learn more aboutmacOS Tahoe.
After most Apple iPads, including the current iPad Pro M4, received the worst possible rating on the new EU energy label, Apple is criticizing the European Union. The criticism is justified in at least a few areas.
The Apple iPad Pro receives the worst rating from the new EU energy label. (Image source: Apple, edited)
Since June 20, all smartphones and tablets sold in the European Union have an energy label attached, which, similar to household appliances, must be displayed by all retailers and online shops. Aswe previously reported, energy labels have been issued for 603 smartphones and tablets so far, 142 of which have been awarded the highest possible rating of “A”. None of these top ratings went to Apple.
While the iPhone 16 Pro at least received a “B” rating, most iPad models only received a “G” rating – the worst rating stipulated by the EU. As the comparison of the labels between iPhone and iPad shows, the latter receives a significant deduction because it can barely survive drops and is not waterproof. The current iPad Pro gets a mediocre repairability rating of “C” – a fairly generous rating, as a look at the iFixit teardown reveals. There is also a deduction for the fact that Apple does not guarantee software updates.
So wird die Akkulaufzeit getestet, die auf dem EU-Energielabel ausgewiesen wird.
In response to the introduction of the EU Energy Label, Apple has published a44-page document explaining its own test methodology and criticizing the European Union’s specifications. According to Apple, the test results would have been sufficient to give the iPhone 16 Pro a better rating by one level in the areas of energy efficiency and drop resistance, but to account for ambiguities in the test specifications, Apple downgraded itself by one notch in each case.
This demonstrates one of the problems with the EU Energy Label: all tests are carried out by the product manufacturers themselves and are only checked by the EU in individual cases. Apple’s main criticism is that the specifications are sometimes vague and open to different interepretations, which in turn leads to different test methodologies and thus different ratings between manufacturers. This is not atypical for the EU, as these are only “preliminary” specifications that will be updated as soon as sufficient data and feedback from manufacturers is available.
Furthremore, Apple argues that some of the specifications are so vague that they barely make sense. For example, the rating of how well a product survives drops can be “overstated” by up to three levels depending on how the test parameters are interpreted. The EU requires a drop onto a steel plate, but does not provide any information on the degree of hardness or surface texture, which can influence the results significantly. Furthermore, only five drops are required, which, according to Apple, is too little for obtaining reliable results.
VRM is an essential part of every computer, but it’s often given little attention. In fact, even many computer-savvy enthusiasts don’t even know what it is or how it works. VRM stands for Voltage Regulator Module. Without a VRM to regulate the huge voltage coming from the power supply, your computer’s more delicate, high-powered components, like the processor, could get fried in an instant. And if your VRM is faulty or fails, your CPU could start showing signs of failure, such as the blue screen of death.
But rather than simply bottlenecking the computer’s power supply, the VRM’s job is more nuanced. It must convert the incoming power into not just a lower but a consistent voltage. That way, your high-powered components don’t receive dips or surges, which could potentially damage them. This consistency is achieved through an array of capacitors and inductors organized into special circuits around MOSFETs, which are specialized transistors. The “brain” of the VRM is an integrated circuit, often referred to as the PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) controller. Within the VRM, capacitors are responsible for resisting sudden changes in voltage, inductors are responsible for resisting sudden changes in current, and MOSFETs are responsible for limiting the incoming charge to specific levels.
The VRM can be found on the motherboard, right where it’s needed the most: near the CPU socket. To identify yours, look between the motherboard’s power connector and CPU socket. You should see one or more rows of cylindrical capacitors, cube-shaped inductors, and MOSFETs, which are typically black square chips. The VRM is soldered right onto the motherboard, so its name describes this entire array of capacitors, inductors, transistors, and the PWM controller contained within the VRM circuit.
As described, the circuit of a VRM is composed of capacitors, inductors, and MOSFETs, which are all controlled by a PWM controller. The simplest schematic of a VRM is a single-phase circuit. Basically, in a single-phase VRM circuit, the MOSFETs act as switches to turn the flow of energy on and off, while the inductors and capacitors act as its signalers and current and voltage storage, respectively. The electrical engineering involved is pretty complex, but what’s important for computer performance is how this process generates heat.
Whenever the MOSFET is switched off, the electrical input to the inductor, or “choke,” is sent back. This switching of current results in a magnetic charge with nowhere to go other than dissipating into the air and surrounding components. As a result, every time the MOSFET is switched on and off, heat is generated. Leaks in the insulation around capacitors will also generate heat. Fortunately, it’s a small amount of heat — the immediate temperature can be about 300 degrees Fahrenheit, but it happens in a fraction of a second. Unfortunately, the MOSFET switches on and off dozens of times per second, so heat becomes a significant issue in the design of a VRM.
Engineers found a simple way to solve the VRM’s problem of heat dissipation. Rather than using a single-phase VRM circuit, modern computers rely on multi-phase VRMs to split the workload into smaller phases across a greater physical area. Using multi-phase VRMs can also improve accuracy and efficiency since each MOSFET only needs to be responsible for a fraction of the total power load. Thus, the heat is both lower in the areas where it’s generated and more widely spread out.
VRM is one of the most important considerations when choosing a motherboard. While the VRM on basic-level motherboards is typically good enough to handle standard graphics cards and CPUs, an expensive motherboard might be worth it if you’re using it for high-end processing and overclocking. Not only do premium motherboards typically have higher-quality VRM components capable of handling the demands of powerful processors, but they’re also usually better at temperature control. Quality VRMs regulate voltage by using more phases to disperse the power load (and, therefore, the temperature) across a greater area. Basic VRMs use about four to six phases, while high-end VRMs break the current into as many as eight or more phases; however, the quality of the VRM components still plays a greater role in heat management.
The effectiveness of a VRM’s heatsink is especially important when overclocking the CPU. Gamers often want to know how to overclock their PCs but may overlook the important role a quality VRM has in reducing the risk of overheating. Because an overclocked CPU generates extra heat, the nearby VRM components must be able to operate at higher temperatures without failing. VRM components also need to be able to meet the increased power demands from an overclocked CPU. As a result, the VRM adds extra heat to the already-heated system.
However, the price of a motherboard isn’t necessarily a great indication of the quality of its VRM components. Instead of relying on the price, search for VRMs with leak-resistant capacitors. These are often marketed under different, eye-catching names such as “Dark Capacitors” and “Japanese Capacitors.” High-quality inductors are also sold under different names, like “Super Ferrite Chokes.” You can search the web for any particular name you don’t recognize to see if it’s a quality component.
When the temperature hits 90 and wind subsides, I like to head down to the boardwalk. We have a few nearby, but one of my favorites is along Long Beach on the south shore of Long Island. When I head out, I like to grab my sunglasses, sunblock, and a smartphone, or two. In this case, I popped the Samsung Galaxy S25 Ultra and Apple’s iPhone 16 Pro Max for a Boardwalk photo shootout.
These flagships, as I see it, are the best of the best (officially ranked Number 1 and Number 4, respectively, on ourBest Phones 2025list), two spectacular smartphones packed with excellent processors, screens, and cameras. With a 200MP main camera, theSamsungGalaxy S25 Ultra is unquestionably the megapixel winner, but the quality of any smartphone image is not just the sum of all pixels.
Both smartphones feature multiple lenses and, often, binning options to combine some pixels (often as many as four) into one information-filled dot. Additionally, there is all the processor-based image processing.Applecalls it the Photonic Engine, and Samsung calls theirs the ProVisual Engine.
Both do a good, even excellent job of taking what the physical optics and image sensor see and delivering something on the screen side that is accurate and sometimes exquisite.
For my Boardwalk Photo test, I purposely did as little as possible to mess with image settings. Instead, I focused mostly on using the main camera and optics-based zoom. I didn’t want to use digital zoom since I know the back-end AI can get involved and try to “enhance” and “augment” images in unnatural ways.
Overall, the results show excellent work from both the Samsung Galaxy S25 Ultra and Apple iPhone 16 Pro Max. Still, there are key differences that may define your next choice for the ultimate boardwalk (and beach) smartphone camera.
I won’t argue that this is the final word on all these cameras, but I did notice enough of a consistent approach across each device that I’m prepared to draw some conclusions. Let’s look at the first set of photos.
This image set looks down the boardwalk at some of the high-rise apartment buildings. I was standing just off the boardwalk’s long wooden path, and pointed the main cameras toward the structures.
They’re both good images, and at 100%, they hold up nicely. However, the differences are also pretty stark.
Samsung’s habit of over-brightening and sometimes making color too rich or overly consistent is on full display. Mostly, that effect results in pleasing imagery, but compared to the iPhone 16 Pro Max, the Samsung Galaxy S25 Ultra made the whole image too bright, and we end up losing some of the dramatic cloud bank detail. The bright approach also damps shadows a bit, draining away a little of the drama.
Where Samsung excels is in keeping objects in focus well into the distance.
There is nothing wrong with the Galaxy S25 Ultra photo, but I still prefer the iPhone 16 Pro Max shot.
This image set was challenging because the foreground foliage is so detailed and therefore contains a large amount of digital information for each image processor to handle.
I was impressed that both 5X optical zoom cameras could pick up the hazy freighters in the distance.
Samsung’s 50MP telephoto seems to gather a bit more detail than the iPhone 12MP 5X zoom, but not by a lot. Part of that is because the Samsung zoom automatically bins pixels down to a roughly 9MP image.
Colors on the Samsung image are accurate, and I appreciated that it picked up the pop of the yellow flag.
The iPhone 16 Pro Max colors are just as good (both got the hazy sky just right), and I noticed more detail in the ocean churn. Overall, though, Samsung’s telephoto camera picks up more detail, and I think that’s down to more pixels pouring more information into the overall shot.
Samsung Galaxy S25 Ultra versus iPhone 16 Pro Max
Main: on the beach
Samsung Galaxy S25 Ultra
Apple iPhone 16 Pro Max
I could stare at the beach and ocean all day long, but it’s always hard for any camera to recreate my view. At least they’re getting closer. These two shots highlight many of the iPhone 16 Pro Max’s and Samsung Galaxy S25 Ultra’s core strengths and weaknesses.
As we’ve seen before, Samsung is over-brightening the shot, losing a little of the deep blue of a perfect pre-summer day and the deeper green of the ocean.
The iPhone’s shot is truer and, again, it has stronger shadows.
While the detail in both shots is strong, the iPhone 16 Pro Max holds up a tiny bit better when I zoom in.
Samsung Galaxy S25 Ultra versus iPhone 16 Pro Max
Subject: A man lost in thought
Samsung Galaxy S25 UltraApple iPhone 16 Pro Max
The boardwalk is full of characters, people who walked its warped planks for decades; they’re as much a part of the beach as the sand, surf, and seagulls.
When you have a subject and setting like this, the light and shadows only add to the drama. Apple’s iPhone 16 Pro Max seems to intuitively know this and leaves well enough alone. Even the clouds get to have their moment, looming dramatically in the background.
Samsung’s brighter approach gives us a clearer view of the man but flattens the image a bit by lighting up almost all of it.
My favorite part of these photos is the man’s weathered hands. The iPhone 16 Pro Max does a brilliant job with its skin color and highlights.
Action: Looking up
Samsung Galaxy S25 UltraApple iPhone 16 Pro Max
Overhead, seagulls ride the wind, racing back and forth while barely flapping a wing. I tried pointing both phones at the sky to capture them in flight. It wasn’t easy.
Neither image is great, but Samsung did a little better in freezing the action. Unfortunately, I didn’t like what it did with the big blue sky. The lack of objects, people, water, and buildings left too much room for interpretation, and the sky ends up looking pitted and pixelated.
By contrast, the iPhone 16 Pro Max blurred the birds a bit but kept the sky intact. That’s the unblemished blue I saw.
If there’s a winner in all this, I’d say it’s the iPhone 16 Pro Max. It’s almost as if, inside that Photonic engine, is the essence ofAnsel Adams, a photography pioneer who knew enough to let the landscapes speak for themselves.
Samsung Galaxy S25 Ultra is close behind (and ahead in some regards), but as ever, I think the closer to visual truth Samsung’s cameras get, the better off its photography will be.
If you’re currently a student, or about to head off for high school or college for the first time, there’s a good chance you’re considering getting one of thebest Chromebooks. These Google-powered laptops are a great choice for learners on a budget, offering a sleek and easy-to-use OS at a sensible price point.
But now there’s also the Chromebook Plus lineup: a new tier of ChromeOS laptops that lays down baseline performance and design standards to deliver a more premium-feeling Google laptop experience. And there’s no denying that these new Plus laptops sit among thebest laptops for studentsright now.
Naturally, Chromebook Plus models are more expensive than conventional Chromebooks. So, considering how cheap some Chromebooks can be, is it really worth spending extra for the hardware upgrade, especially if you’re on a budget? In this article, I’ll dig into the pros and cons of the Plus format and hopefully help some budding students find the perfect laptop for them.
As you might expect, the Chromebook Plus standard has certain minimum hardware specs to meet Google’s requirements. That translates to better performance on average against ‘regular’ Chromebooks – but there’s an important catch here.
See, ChromeOS is designed to run with a permanent internet connection and offloads a lot of its processes to the cloud. For example, instead of usingMicrosoftWord and saving files directly to your laptop’s local storage, you’ll be using Google Docs and saving them in the cloud with Google Drive.
This is a double-edged sword. The lightweight nature of ChromeOS allows Chromebooks to be made with less powerful (and more affordable) components, but it also reduces the effective performance upgrade headroom and ties your performance to the speed of your internet connection. If you don’t have high-speed Wi-Fi, bear in mind that paying extra for a more powerful Chromebook, like theAcer Chromebook Plus 514, won’t necessarily translate to significantly faster performance.
The Acer Chromebook Plus 514 exemplifies what a Chromebook should be, and it’s much better value than a Windows laptop or MacBook, too.
Still, Plus models have other advantages. More RAM means you’ll be able to multitask more effectively, so if you tend to keep 20+ browser tabs open at once or multiple programs running simultaneously, it’s a worthwhile upgrade. You also get at least 128GB (often more) of drive space with a Chromebook Plus. This isn’t always needed, due to the cloud-based nature of ChromeOS, but will come in handy for users who want to install lots of programs.
Lastly, Chromebook Plus laptops are designed with Google Gemini in mind. In other words, these laptops are a bit better suited for running AI features, although, again, a lot of this functionality is offloaded to cloud computing, so don’t expect to see a tremendous difference.
There’s no escaping the fact that some Chromebooks do simply look and feel cheap. If you’re picking up a super-budget model for under $300 / £300 / AU$500, chances are it’s not going to look anything like a premium device.
That’s not the case for Chromebook Plus laptops; the higher price does mean you’re getting a product that feels a bit higher-end. Sure, they might not look quite as fancy as thebest ultrabooks, but it’s a noticeable upgrade.
Then again, it’s a hill I’ll die on that people shouldn’t be concerned with how their hardwarelooks– that’s how you end up with overpriced tech. What’s important is how itfeels,and a Chromebook Plus is invariably going to feel a bit better to use than a budget Chromebook. The specifics of this may vary. A more comfortable keyboard, a more robust and sensitive trackpad, a sturdier outer chassis, or an improved port selection; there are lots of possible improvements to be found here.
A Chromebook Plus is guaranteed to have a Full HD webcam – great for remote learning, or video calls with family while you’re away at college.
There are two key factors mandated by Google for a laptop to receive the Plus badge: display and webcam. The screen must be a minimum of Full HD 1080p resolution, and the webcam must capture video in 1080p.
While 1080p is widely considered to be the ‘baseline’ for Windows laptops, you’ll find plenty of cheap Chromebooks out there still rocking a lower resolution (most commonly ‘HD Ready’ 720p). Considering that most entertainment media these days is available in Full HD (or better!), it’s worth considering a Chromebook Plus for its superior display if you like to kick back and watch Netflix on your laptop after a day of studying. The boosted webcam resolution is also a nice addition for students who have remote classes using software like Zoom.
When not to pick a Chromebook
I think Chromebooks are an excellent alternative to a Windows or macOS laptop for any user who wants good value for money, but there’s an important caveat to bear in mind here: software compatibility.
Simply put, not everything you can run on a traditional Windows laptop will be available on ChromeOS. You do get a decent selection of native apps, and Google has also made the AndroidGoogle Play Storecompatible with Chromebooks. Still, some software may not be compatible, so if you plan to use specific programs, be sure to check in advance whether they’re available on ChromeOS.
As great as Chromebooks are, ChromeOS does have some limitations when it comes to software compatibility.
It’s also important to consider the topic you’re studying. Some courses will be better served by a more powerful laptop capable of handling more intensive local workloads. For example, if you’re in a creative discipline like 3D digital art or video editing, you might be better off with a laptop that has a dedicated GPU fromNvidiaorAMD, which is something that Chromebooks universally lack. If you’re taking literature or business studies, though, a Chromebook should suit you just fine.
If you decide that a Chromebook isn’t right for you, be sure to check out our list of thebest student laptops. Some of theseareChromebooks, but you’ve got some excellent alternative options like theDell Plus 14.
Chromebook vs Chromebook Plus: Closing thoughts
At the end of the day, thebest student Chromebookwill be a little different for everyone, depending on your needs and budget.
But having tested a large number of Chromebooks (both Plus and non-Plus) over the years, I feel quite comfortable saying that if your budget can stretch a little further, the upgrade is worth it. Having a faster processor and a better display is a worthwhile upgrade, and several Chromebook Plus models on the market cost less than $500 / £500 / AU$750 – a great deal considering how expensive modern Windows laptops can be, even just in the mid-range space.
Nonetheless, you shouldn’t be discouraged about buying a super-cheap Chromebook if you’re working with an extremely tight budget. I’d advise looking for a model with at least 8GB of RAM, but even with that criterion in place, you should be able to find something reasonably priced, like theLenovo IdeaPad 3i Chromebook. Whatever you choose, you can rely on TechRadar’s recommended product pages, as we never recommend hardware that we wouldn’t use ourselves.
Whether you’re building or upgrading your PC, the size of its motherboard plays a big role in choosing computer components. It affects everything from how many parts you can install to how much room your case needs to how many ports are available. Mini ITX and Micro ATX are two common choices for those who want a more portable build or something that doesn’t take up as much real estate as a standard ATX case.
Both Mini-ITX and Micro ATX boards are squares, whereas standard ATX is a rectangle. Between the two smaller sizes, the Mini-ITX board is noticeably smaller at 6.7 inches x 6.7 inches, while the Micro ATX measures 9.6 inches x 9.6 inches. That extra space matters when you’re thinking about expansion, airflow, and compatibility. While both boards are designed to work in smaller cases, they do target different needs.
Mini-ITX is a better fit for ultra-compact systems and can be found among some of the best motherboards for gaming. Micro ATX, on the other hand, offers more room without taking up as much space as standard ATX, allowing for more hardware options. So if you’re deciding between the two, start with size and how much flexibility you need. From there, it’s all about what kind of build you’re planning, whether you want something ultra-compact or a system with more room to grow.
Mini ITX offers a small size, but with big trade-offs
Building a small form factor PC like a Mini-ITX requires a lot of considerations because of its compact design, but there are some great benefits, too. They can be quieter than other builds since the cases they fit into don’t have enough room for an abundance of fans. Moreover, they use less power and often require fewer cables, which can make for a cleaner setup. The Mini-ITX size makes them useful as home theater PCs, portable workstations, and even media servers, proving that a board doesn’t have to be big to be impactful.
There are some trade-offs, though. Mini-ITX motherboards typically have only two memory slots for RAM and offer fewer connectivity ports. There’s also a limited number of PCIe slots, which limits your options when it comes to graphics and other expansion cards. You have to pay close attention to the size of the GPU you want because larger ones might not be supported. Airflow can be a concern, too, due to fewer fan headers and compact cases. These boards are best suited for users who know how to optimize the available space.
Price is a big consideration. Because of their compact and specialized design, Mini-ITX boards can actually cost more than larger ones. For example, the ASUS ROG STRIX B860-I Gaming Mini-ITX currently goes for $219.99. While Mini-ITX can be a great option for compact, quiet builds, it’s not always the most budget-friendly or flexible choice.
Micro ATX is a larger option with more flexibility
Micro ATX boards might be smaller than standard ATX, but they’re larger than Mini-ITX ones, offering more room for components. That extra space means you can install full-size graphics cards, take advantage of better airflow, and add more cooling fans. This makes Micro ATX a strong option for users who want a smaller case but don’t want to compromise on performance.
Micro ATX boards also support more memory and expansion options. Most Micro ATX motherboards come with four RAM slots and multiple PCIe slots, which gives you more flexibility if you need to add more or faster RAM, sound cards, or upgrade your GPU later. They tend to have more connectivity ports than Mini-ITX, as well, which can be useful if you’re using a lot of peripherals or external drives. It’s a balanced option that works well for gaming, general use, or even light productivity.
One of the biggest advantages of Micro ATX is the price. They’re generally cheaper than Mini-ITX boards and offer more features for the money. At the time of this writing, the AORUS Elite AX AMDB 650 Micro-ATX, for example, goes for about $175.99. So unless you specifically need a super small build, a Micro ATX board might be the way to go for those small builds, giving your rig more room to grow over time.
The Nintendo Switch 2 has arrived, alongside a launch line-up containing Mario Kart Worldand Nintendo Switch 2 Welcome Tour. In addition to the console and games, a number of accessories for the new console are also now available, including the Nintendo Switch 2 GameCube controller. Released alongside the new console, the GameCube controller is basically a new version of the classic controller, with the same look and feel as it had 20 years ago. It exists so thatyou can use it with the Nintendo Switch Online + Expansion Pack GameCube gameslaunched alongside the new system.
The controller itself feels the way you want it to, including the classic crunchy triggers. It has an added ZL button, which allows you to play some regular Nintendo Switch 2 with the controller, although there are some limitations to that. The Nintendo Switch 2 GameCube controller feels excellent to use in both GameCube online games and new games alike, but a lack of clickable thumbsticks and button remapping being limited to GameCube NSO games makes this one a little tougher to recommend than the quality of the controller would suggest.
Make waves with this classic-style controller! The Nintendo GameCube™ controller has the familiar look and feel of the original, along with modern features like the C-Button, which can open GameChat*, and the Capture Button. The Nintendo GameCube controller is only compatible with the Nintendo Switch™ 2 system.
Pros & Cons
Feels true to the original GameCube controller
Added ZL and capture buttons make the controller useful outside of GameCube games
Triggers feel exactly how they should
Lighter than I would like
Button mapping is limited to GameCube NSO games
No alternative to clicking in thumb sticks limits the games you can us it with
Nintendo Switch 2 GameCube controller price and availability
The Nintendo Switch 2 GameCube controller is available exclusively throughNintendo’s websitefor $65. There are no other retailers that sell it, and you are required to have an active Nintendo Switch Online subscription in order to purchase it. You don’t need to have the Expansion Pack subscription, just the base one, although you will need a premium subscription to play GameCube NSO games. You are also limited to one controller per Nintendo Switch Online account, with no timeframe for when you might be able to get a second one.
It feels exactly the way I remember GameCube controllers feeling
To start with the positives, the Nintendo Switch 2 GameCube controller feels just like an original GameCube controller feels. While that is partially from my memory of the controller, I have used an actual GameCube controller to play on a real GameCube within the past few months. Because of that, I can say pretty confidently that the vast majority of people would not be able to tell the difference between the two controllers just by holding one. It does have an added ZL button, which I wish was the same size as the Z button on the right, but it allows you to play most Nintendo Switch 2 games with it. The shoulder buttons have pressure-sensitive clicking, so you can accurately play Nintendo GameCube games. It even works in Super Mario Sunshinein the now delisted Super Mario 3D All-Stars.
I can say pretty confidently that the vast majority of people would not be able to tell the difference between the two controllers just by holding one.
Both the sticks feel a bit sturdier than the original sticks, although that could be a result of this being a brand-new controller, and the GameCube controller I recently used is not. All the extra buttons, the C button, capture, home, and the sync button, have been relegated to the top of the controller, a good spot for all of them except the capture button, which I wish was a bit more convenient.
Bizarre and unnecessary limitations
Button mapping, but only in NSO GameCube games
Outside of playing the Nintendo Switch Online GameCube games, my mileage with the GameCube controller varied far more than I expected. I played a significant amount ofMario Kart Worldusing the controller, and I didn’t have any issues playing the game until I ventured into Free Roam. In Free Roam, I attempted a challenge and failed, resulting in the game prompting me to click the right stick to reset. Neither stick on the GameCube controller clicks, but I figured I could remap it, sinceMario Kart Worlddoesn’t use all the buttons, anyway. That’s when I discovered that button mapping is not available for the GameCube controller on the system level.
This limits the controller’s use pretty heavily, and in a way that doesn’t make much sense to me.
This was a bit of a shock for two reasons. First, there doesn’t seem to be any explanation for why any controller wouldn’t be able to use the system-level button mapping. Second, and even more frustrating, is that I had remapped the buttons while playingSoulCalibur 2. Within NSO GameCube games, you can fully remap the buttons on the GameCube controller without any real limitation. This makes the lack of button mapping elsewhere even more frustrating, since the functionality is obviously there. Furthermore, this means that any game where you need to click the sticks you can’t play with a GameCube controller, which could be fixed in most situations by simple button remapping. This limits the controller’s use pretty heavily, and in a way that doesn’t make much sense to me.
A great controller held back by weird Nintendo decisions
As someone who grew up with a GameCube, my nostalgia for the controller and games is incredibly powerful. I understand that, and that’s partially what makes me love using the controller so much, but there are simple design choices that speak to me. I love that the face buttons seem more concerned with comfortable placement than a clean look, the triggers still feel incredible to click on, and I love how the main thumbstick feels.
Despite my love of that original controller and its recreation of the Switch 2, the Nintendo Switch 2 GameCube controller has some dumb and inexcusable limitations. Not being able to remap buttons for most games, despite the functionality being present for the NSO GameCube games, feels like a choice meant to force you to only use the controller for those games. There are still plenty of games I can play with the controller, not having button remapping limits the number, and does so for seemingly no reason. That said, it’s a great feeling controller, and if that sounds appealing to you, it’s worth the price, even with these limitations.
Nintendo Switch 2 GameCube Controller
7/ 10
Number of Colors1
Wireless?Yes
Compatible SystemsNintendo Switch 2
Color OptionsBlueThe Nintendo Switch 2 GameCube controller feels like an excellent recreation of the classic controller. The triggers are pressure sensitive, the sticks feel great, and the added ZL button makes it work with some Switch 2 games. A lack of button remapping outside the NSO GameCube controllers unfortunately limits its usefulness.
The router breakthrough we were (maybe) waiting for?
(Image credit: Guru3d)
TP-Link’s EAP772-Outdoor survives immersion, but the signal won’t follow it into the water
Built to endure harsh elements, but not the hype surrounding underwater wireless capabilities
Enterprise users might love it, but it feels like overkill for your average Wi-Fi needs
TP-Link has announced a new Wi-Fi 7 access point that not only supports the latest wireless standard, but also boasts an IP68 rating which allows it to withstand full water immersion.
On paper, this rugged Wi-Fi 7 access point looks great, with tri-band wireless speeds up to 9.3Gbps, support for over 380 connected devices, and 2.5Gbps Power over Ethernet (PoE) for streamlined setup.
However, the decision to highlight full immersion capabilities invites a more skeptical look, especially considering the known limitations of wireless communication in water.
The device is equipped with two 4 dBi antennas for the 2.4GHz band and two 6dBi antennas each for the 5GHz and 6GHz bands.
It operates across the 2.4GHz, 5GHz, and 6GHz bands, offering maximum theoretical speeds of up to 688Mbps, 2.88Gbps, and 5.76Gbps, respectively, and supports a coverage area of around 300 square meters and a five-year warranty by the company.
So, while the router might physically survive immersion, the idea of underwater Wi-Fi remains questionable.
Standard Wi-Fi is inherently ineffective underwater. Radio frequencies, especially at 2.4GHz and above, are quickly absorbed by water, leaving little room for practical transmission beyond a few feet.
Water blocks the very signals the device is designed to emit, raising doubts about how the LAN port would even be protected from moisture once submerged.
If we momentarily entertain the concept of underwater wireless use, the practical applications are narrow and not well served by conventional Wi-Fi.
Divers, for instance, would benefit from the ability to send data or communicate without relying on hand signals or physical boards.
Real-time image sharing or sensor readings from underwater drones to surface computers could be useful in scientific or military operations.
However, these needs are already being addressed by emerging technologies like Aqua-Fi, which uses LED, laser, or acoustic waves for underwater data transmission, none of which involve standard Wi-Fi frequencies.
TP-Link has not suggested any integration with such systems, nor has it indicated that the EAP772-Outdoor is intended for submerged deployment beyond mere survivability.
That raises the question of why the waterproof feature is being emphasized at all. For outdoor venues, where rain, dust, and heat are threats, weatherproofing makes sense.
But full immersion? Unless the router is accidentally dropped in a pond or installed in a highly flood-prone area, it’s difficult to see the value.
For users seeking thebest Wi-Fi router, the EAP772-Outdoor may excel in terms of outdoor reliability.
Enterprise clients needing tough gear for open-air deployment might also make sense out of this device, but for anyone shopping for amobile hotspotorswitchfor home or office use, this might seem more like overengineering.
The TP-Link EAP772 is expected to retail around $565 when it launches in June 2025.
VRAM — video memory — is what your graphics card uses to store textures, lighting data, shadows, reflections, and all the other visual assets that make your PC games look the way they should. That data is then processed by the GPU in real time to render each frame you see on your monitor. If your GPU’s VRAM is too small, it has to start swapping that data in and out of slower system memory — your RAM and SSD — and that’s when you get lag, weird and blurry textures, hitching cutscenes, or games refuses to launch entirely. That’s why VRAM matters more than most people think.
The amount of VRAM you need will depend on the games you play, and the resolution you’re targeting — and the answer isn’t always “as much as you can afford.” If you’re playing esports titles like “Valorant,” “CS2,” “Fortnite,” or even “Warzone,” you won’t need much. Right now, the safe floor for those games at 1080p resolution is 8 GB of VRAM — most players are running low setting presets anyway to boost frame rates and reduce input lag.
Most modern singleplayer games will chew right through those 8 GB even at 1080p with high settings. If you don’t want to trade graphics quality for fps or just want to keep your GPU for longer, you’ll need at least 12-16 GB of VRAM. You don’t even need to be maxing out every setting out to hit the VRAM wall, especially not today. Once you understand how games use VRAM — and how to check what your system needs — it gets a lot easier to buy smart.
There’s a reason so many people still use 8 GB cards. For years, it was the safe middle ground — enough memory, good performance, and generally fine unless you were going heavy on the mods or pushing 4K. Even now, cards like the RX 6600 and RTX 3060 are still in a lot of builds. If you are running medium settings, they’ll still get the job done in most cases. With the games coming out today, 8 gigs of VRAM now sits right on the edge for 1080p gaming.
We’re already seeing games at high settings pushing past 8 gigs of VRAM usage. Titles like “Cyberpunk 2077,” “Hogwarts Legacy,” “Alan Wake 2,” “Stalker 2,” and “Indiana Jones and the Great Circle” are all pushing past 8 GB, and that’s before you turn on anything extra. Once you step up to 1440p or 4K resolution — which more and more people are doing now for AAA games — VRAM usage climbs.
Ray tracing makes the problem worse, as it adds more data on top of what’s already being rendered, so if you’re trying to run RT on an 8GB card, you’re already maxing things out. While AI-upscaling technologies like Nvidia’s DLSS and AMD’s FSR can definitely help with frame rates and using less VRAM, the visual data from these models still has to live somewhere. And if you’re already hitting the hardware limit on graphics memory, there’s nothing software can do to fix it.
The easy way to tell if your GPU has enough VRAM for games
Every game sold on Steam, Epic, or the publisher’s own store lists minimum and recommended PC specs. Those specs show the GPU model and the VRAM each setting preset expects, but lately, there are more things to look out for. More games are listing VRAM requirements directly, and in some cases, you’ll start losing features if your card doesn’t have enough of bandwidth.
“Indiana Jones and the Great Circle” is a good example: The game won’t even launch unless your GPU supports hardware-based ray tracing, which immediately rules out most budget and AMD graphics cards. Even if your graphics card does meet the requirement, there’s another barrier to clear. The official recommendation is a 12 GB RTX 3080 Ti, so if you have a 10 GB RTX 3080, the ray tracing menu won’t even show up for you. This is only going to become more common.
A lot of recent titles now include a VRAM usage bar in the settings menu that fills up as you raise graphics quality. Going too far will turn the usage bar red and, in some cases, display a warning message that you are over your graphics card’s memory limit.
If you want to get more specific, you can download MSI Afterburner, turn on the on-screen display, and play a game you normally run at high settings. It’s a great way to know where your GPU and VRAM stand. Keep your eye on the VRAM usage while playing. If you’re hitting 7.8 GB and your card has 8, you’re already on borrowed time — any big scene, explosion, or cutscene with a lot of scenery or camera pans can result in your game glitching or crashing.
Right now, the13-inch MacBook Air M4comfortably sits at the top of ourbest laptopslist. And with good reason. It’s $100 cheaper than its predecessors yet packs impressive power, a sharp webcam and long battery life in an elegant chassis. If you likemacOSand need a reliable laptop that’s easy to travel with, this is the notebook to get.
Since I review thebest Windows laptopsandbest MacBooks, I like to use machines featuring those respective operating systems. For work and gaming, I preferWindows 11, but for leisure, I prefer a MacBook since it pairs nicely with my Apple devices like theiPhone 16 Pro MaxandiPad Pro M4. For the latter, my go-to machine is the 13-inch MacBook Air M4.
Here are my pros and cons after using the 13-inch MacBook Air M4 for the past three months.
At home, I have a16-inch MacBook Pro M4 Prothat I reviewed late last year. While that laptop has a gorgeous 16-inch display, a roomy keyboard, plenty of ports and delivers excellent performance, I don’t use it as my daily driver because it’s too big and heavy. When I’m at home or on the road, I want to use something lightweight, hence the 13-inch MacBook Air M4.
At 11.9 x 8.4 x 0.4 inches and 2.7 pounds, the MacBook Air M4 lives up to its “Air” moniker since it’s so thin and light. When I’m home and want to quickly send some messages or browse the internet, using this laptop is more convenient than its bulkier 16-inch sibling.
Similarly, I can almost forget the laptop is in my backpack when I take it on the road. That’s important since I travel to many press events. Having a thin and light computer that doesn’t literally weigh me down is crucial.
Speaking of design, I’m still a fan of the MacBook Air’s nondescript design, which is something all modern MacBooks share. Aside from the iconic Apple logo on the back, the laptop is free of embellishments, which is perfect for me.
Plenty of power and battery life
The 13-inch MacBook Air M4 I have features an M4 chip, 16GB of RAM and 256GB of storage. Thanks to that, it delivers plenty of performance for my everyday workload, which consists of usingGooglefor browsing the web and word processing.
Since I mostly use the MacBook Air M4 at home, I don’t often have dozens of open tabs like I do when working on articles. But if I’m on a work trip, I know this laptop has more than enough power to handle whatever I throw at it. I might say otherwise if I were editing videos (which this machine is quite capable of), but since I’m a writer, that’s not a concern. That said, editing photos in GIMP is a breeze on this laptop.
The M4 chip doesn’t just deliver excellent performance. Since this chip is so efficient, this MacBook Air has stellar battery life. In our battery test, which involves continuous web surfing over Wi-Fi with the display set to 150 nits of brightness, the laptop endured for nearly 15 hours. For my purposes, which involve web surfing and watchingYouTubevideos, I generally have to charge the laptop every two or three days, which is pretty great.
YouTube is my main source of entertainment outside of gaming, and I watch plenty of it on the MacBook Air M4. Doing so is pretty enjoyable thanks to the bright and colorful 13.6-inch Liquid Retina display. Yes, things look better on the iPad Pro M4 OLED’s panel, but the MacBook Air M4 still delivers excellent image quality.
In our lab testing, the 13-inch MacBook Air M4’s screen reached 470 nits of brightness when displaying HDR content. That’s close to the marketed 500 nits of brightness, which is awesome. The level of brightness hits the sweet spot of being vivid but not overbearing. Because of that, I never feel much (or any) eye strain even after hours of use.
The four-speaker sound system also helps all the YouTube videos I watch sound great. That said, this isn’t an ideal device for listening to music since the bass is kind of disappointing. But when it comes to podcasts and similar videos, the speakers do a solid job.
MacBook Air M4: Cons
Minimal game support compared to PC
Apple has been making great strides with gaming since the company began releasing M-series computers. Games likeBaldur’s Gate 3andResident Evil 4, which have been optimized for Apple silicon, look and run like a dream on current Macs.Cyberpunk 2077 is also coming to Macs, which proves that game companies are starting to view Macs as a viable platform.
That said, despite Apple’s admittedly laudable gaming efforts, I won’t ditch my gaming PC for a Mac any time soon. For instance, the majority of games on my Steam account aren’t available or won’t run well on Macs. M4 Macs have more than enough power to run graphically demanding games, but that doesn’t mean much if you can’t play some of the biggest titles on Macs. I seriously doubtGrand Theft Auto VIwill be available for Macs at launch (though I’d love to be wrong).
I know that I can play Windows games on a Mac through software like Parallels. While that’s great, some games won’t always work as intended. Plus, I don’t like the idea of using third-party software to run games. Native support is always best, but that’s sadly lacking for many of thebest PC games.
Not a lot of ports
Though I prefer using a 13-inch MacBook Air M4 over a 16-inch MacBook Pro M4, the latter has a greater number of ports.
While I can minimize this issue by connecting to one of thebest wireless miceandbest wireless keyboards, I’d need to purchase a USB dock with an HDMI port if I want to connect the Air M4 to my monitor. This isn’t a problem with a MacBook Pro, which does have an HDMI port.
The minimal port selection isn’t a huge problem since I mostly use the MacBook Air M4 as a laptop instead of a replacement PC. I also appreciate that it has MagSafe charging, so I don’t have to use up one of those USB-C ports. Still, I wouldn’t mind more ports if I ever need them.
My favorite MacBook
The MacBook Pro is Apple’s premium laptop and certainly one of my favorites. That said, the humble 13-inch MacBook Air M4 is my go-to choice since it better fits my lifestyle.
It’s lighter than even a 14-inch MacBook Pro and more portable than the 15-inch MacBook Air. And though I wish it had more ports, it has plenty of power for my needs, along with a phenomenal display and long-lasting battery life.
While it’s more of an iterative update, it’s my preferred MacBook and the best MacBook for most people. I don’t think I’ll switch to another laptop for everyday use anytime soon.
